Evaporated Milk vs Sweetened Condensed Milk: Which One Pumpkin Pie Needs

Evaporated Milk vs Sweetened Condensed Milk: Which One Pumpkin Pie Needs

Written by: Adam Sabon

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Time to read 7 min

Pumpkin Pie Guide

Two Cans of Milk,
One Pumpkin Custard

Written by: Adam Sabon | 6 min read

The cans sit next to each other on the same shelf and hold two different products. Evaporated milk is concentrated milk with nothing added. Sweetened condensed milk is concentrated milk carrying close to half its weight in sugar. A pumpkin custard built for one will not behave the same way on the other.

Evaporated milk and sweetened condensed milk both start as milk with most of the water taken out. Sugar is what separates them. Evaporated milk has none added. Sweetened condensed milk is roughly 40% to 45% sucrose by weight, and that sugar is doing structural work in the can, not only flavoring it.

In a pumpkin pie the distinction decides how the custard is built. One can supplies liquid and milk solids while the baker sets the sweetness. The other supplies liquid, milk solids and the sweetness together, which means the rest of the formula has to be written around it.

Evaporated Milk Is Concentrated Milk With No Sugar Added

Evaporated milk is made by removing water from milk, commonly around 60% of it, then homogenizing the result, sealing it in a can and processing it with heat. US standards of identity set the floor at 6.5% milkfat, 16.5% milk solids not fat and 23% total milk solids, and vitamin D is added.

Those minimums work out to roughly twice the concentration of fluid milk, which is why a can of evaporated milk diluted with an equal amount of water stands in for milk in a recipe that calls for it.

The heat processing leaves a light cooked note and a faint caramel color from the milk sugars. Pourable, close to cream in body, and unsweetened, it goes into both sweet and savory work.

Sweetened Condensed Milk Carries Close to Half Its Weight in Sugar

Sweetened condensed milk is also concentrated milk, with sucrose added before the water is reduced. US standards put the minimums at 8% milkfat and 28% total milk solids, and the quantity of sugar is set at the level needed to keep the product stable in the can.

The sugar concentration is high enough to tie up the available water, which is what holds the product rather than the heat sterilization evaporated milk receives. That difference in method is the reason the two cans are built and labeled separately.

What comes out is thick, sticky and sweet. A standard 14 ounce can weighs 396 grams, so sugar at 40% to 45% works out to roughly 160 to 180 grams, a bit more than three quarters of a cup of granulated sugar.

Why Pumpkin Pie Custard Is Written Around Evaporated Milk

Pumpkin pie is a baked custard poured into a pie shell. Eggs set the filling, pumpkin supplies the body and flavor, and the dairy brings the liquid that carries all of it. The amount of water in that liquid decides how firm the slice stands.

Evaporated milk fits the job because the water is already out of it. The filling gets milk solids and fat without the extra moisture that fluid milk would add, so the custard sets firm enough to cut cleanly while staying smooth.

Keeping sugar separate matters too. With unsweetened dairy, the sugar is weighed into the formula on its own, which lets the sweetness move independently of the liquid. Trading out granulated sugar for brown sugar, or adjusting the level for a spicier filling, changes nothing about the custard's moisture.

Pumpkin pie recipes built on sweetened condensed milk exist and work as written. They drop the added sugar entirely, since the can already brings it, and the ratios of egg and pumpkin shift to match.

What the difference comes down to

Evaporated milk adds liquid and milk solids. Sweetened condensed milk adds liquid, milk solids and sugar at once. Use the can the recipe was written around, and when you change cans, change the sugar and the liquid along with it.

Evaporated Milk and Sweetened Condensed Milk Side by Side

Question Evaporated Milk Sweetened Condensed Milk
Added sugar None Sucrose, roughly 40% to 45% by weight
Minimum milkfat 6.5% 8%
Minimum total milk solids 23% 28%
Body Pourable, close to cream Thick and syrupy
What holds it in the can Sealed and processed with heat Sugar concentration
Common retail can 12 fluid ounces 14 ounces
Role in a pumpkin pie Liquid and milk solids, with sweetness set separately Liquid, milk solids and sweetness together

Reading the Can Before the Recipe Card

The two cans are similar in size, similar in shape and often stocked beside each other, which is where the mix-up starts. The word on the label that settles it is sweetened.

Plain condensed milk is a third product, and it meets the evaporated milk composition without the heat processing that makes the sealed can stable. On most US shelves, a can labeled condensed milk is the sweetened one, so the ingredient panel is worth a look when the label is short.

Can sizes differ between the two as well. A recipe written for a 12 fluid ounce can of evaporated milk and one written for a 14 ounce can of sweetened condensed milk are not working from the same volume, which matters once a formula is scaled to batch.

Before a holiday production run: bake one test pie with the can you plan to buy in volume. A change in dairy moves the moisture and the sugar in the filling at the same time, and a single pie is a cheaper place to find the set you want than a case of them.

Swapping One Can for the Other in a Pumpkin Pie

Either can can stand in for the other, with adjustments. A straight one for one exchange moves both the sweetness and the liquid at the same time, which pulls the custard away from the point the recipe was tuned to.

Going from evaporated milk to sweetened condensed milk, pull the sugar out of the formula to account for the roughly 160 to 180 grams the can brings. The filling also runs thicker, so some liquid comes back in as milk or water to return the custard to a pourable state.

Going the other direction, from sweetened condensed milk to evaporated milk, add sugar to replace what the can was contributing and expect a thinner filling going into the shell.

Flavor moves along with the texture. A filling built on sweetened condensed milk tastes sweeter and reads closer to a dulce note, while evaporated milk keeps the pumpkin and the spices further forward.

Test the swap before it carries a production batch. Egg count, pumpkin solids and bake time all interact with the dairy, and the result is easier to judge in the pan than on paper.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Can Evaporated Milk Replace Sweetened Condensed Milk in Pumpkin Pie? It can, once the sugar comes back in. A 14 ounce can of sweetened condensed milk carries roughly 160 to 180 grams of sugar, so a recipe moved onto evaporated milk needs that sugar weighed into the filling. The filling will also be thinner going into the shell, which is normal for an evaporated milk custard.
How Much Sugar Is in a Can of Sweetened Condensed Milk? Sucrose runs about 40% to 45% of the weight. On a standard 14 ounce can, which is 396 grams, that lands between roughly 160 and 180 grams, a bit more than three quarters of a cup of granulated sugar. Brands vary inside that range, so the nutrition panel is the number to work from when a formula is tight.
Does Evaporated Milk Work as a Substitute for Fresh Milk? Evaporated milk sits at roughly twice the concentration of fluid milk, so diluting it with an equal volume of water brings it back in line for a recipe calling for milk. Used undiluted it adds milk solids and fat without the water, which is a different result and the reason custards call for it that way.
What Keeps a Pumpkin Custard Firm Enough to Slice? Eggs set the structure and the liquid decides how much work they have to do. Concentrated dairy brings milk solids and fat with less water than fluid milk, so the custard firms up without going rubbery. Pumpkin solids and the bake itself carry the rest.
Can Heavy Cream or Whole Milk Stand In for Evaporated Milk? Both change the balance. Whole milk brings more water and fewer milk solids, which softens the set. Heavy cream brings more fat and less milk solids not fat, which reads richer and sets differently. Either substitution is a formula change rather than a swap, and it wants a test bake.
What Is the Difference Between Condensed Milk and Sweetened Condensed Milk? Plain condensed milk, also called concentrated milk, matches the evaporated milk composition and skips the heat processing that makes a sealed can stable. Sweetened condensed milk has the sugar. On US shelves a can labeled condensed milk is almost always the sweetened one, and the ingredient panel confirms it.

Stocking Both Cans Through a Holiday Pie Run

A bakery running pumpkin pie at volume usually keeps both cans on hand, since the two cover different parts of the menu. Evaporated milk goes into the custard pies, and sweetened condensed milk goes into bars, fudge, icebox pies and the fillings that need sweetness and body from the same ingredient.

Write the can and its size onto the formula card next to the weight. A card that reads evaporated milk, 12 fluid ounce can, tells the next person which shelf to pull from, which is the practical reason for knowing the difference at all.

Baker's Authority carries both in bulk and wholesale case quantities across its evaporated and condensed milk range.